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Daring Bakers: Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna

Lasagna of Emilia-Romagna

Lasagna of Emilia-Romagna

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

Lasagna (singular, pronounced [laˈzaɲa] in Italian; plural lasagne pronounced [laˈzaɲe]) is both a form of pasta in sheets (sometimes rippled, though seldom so in Northern Italy) and also a dish, sometimes named lasagne al forno(meaning “oven-cooked lasagne”) made with alternate layers of pasta, cheese, and often ragù (a meat sauce) or tomato sauce.  The word lasagna, which originally applied to a cooking pot, now simply describes the food itself.   Americans commonly use the singular “lasagna” to refer to both the dish and the pasta, while others use the Italian plural “lasagne”.

Lasagna is many different things to many different people.   For me it has not been about how many layers of pasta you can get in your dish, but rather how much “stuff” you can fit between the layers and still keep it all in the pan!   So when I read that this dish should always be a ““vivid expression of the ‘less is more’ philosophy of cooking.  Mere films of béchamel sauce and meat ragu coat the sheerest spinach pasta. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese dusts each layer”, I was quite baffled.  Phrases like “mere film” and “cheese dusts” or “sheer pasta”  just do not describe the lasagna we make here in Kansas! 

For a fleeting moment … or two … I did consider passing on this challenge but I knew I couldn’t, as making homemade, hand rolled pasta is the number one item on my “gotta try it someday” list.   So I read all the info again with a much more open mind and figured out that the “most important” part of this challenge was the hand-made Spinach Egg Pasta and following the instructions for the final assembly. 

Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna (Lasagne Verdi al Forno)
(Serves 8 to 10 as a first course, 6 to 8 as a main dish)
Preparation Time: 15 minutes to assemble and 40 minutes cooking time

10 quarts (9 litres) salted water
1 recipe Spinach Pasta cut for lasagna (recipe follows)#1
1 recipe Bechamel Sauce (recipe follows)#2
1 recipe Country Style Ragu (recipe follows)#3
1 cup (4 ounces/125g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Method:
Working Ahead:
The ragu and the béchamel sauce can be made up to three days ahead.  The ragu can also be frozen for up to one month.  The pasta can be rolled out, cut and dried up to 24 hours before cooking.  The assembled lasagne can wait at room temperature (20 degrees Celsius/68 degrees Fahrenheit) about 1 hour before baking.  Do not refrigerate it before baking, as the topping of béchamel and cheese will overcook by the time the center is hot.

Assembling the Ingredients:
Have all the sauces, rewarmed gently over a medium heat, and the pasta at hand.  Have a large perforated skimmer and a large bowl of cold water next to the stove.  Spread a double thickness of paper towels over a large counter space.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Celsius). Oil or butter a 3 quart (approx 3 litre) shallow baking dish.

Cooking the Pasta:
Bring the salted water to a boil.  Drop about four pieces of pasta in the water at a time.  Cook about 2 minutes.  If you are using dried pasta, cook about 4 minutes, taste, and cook longer if necessary.  The pasta will continue cooking during baking, so make sure it is only barely tender.  Lift the lasagne from the water with a skimmer, drain, and then slip into the bowl of cold water to stop cooking.  When cool, lift out and dry on the paper towels. Repeat until all the pasta is cooked.

Assembling the Lasagne:
Spread a thin layer of béchamel over the bottom of the baking dish.  Arrange a layer of about four overlapping sheets of pasta over the béchamel.  Spread a thin layer of béchamel (about 3 or 4 spoonfuls) over the pasta, and then an equally thin layer of the ragu.  Sprinkle with about 1&1/2 tablespoons of the béchamel and about 1/3 cup of the cheese.  Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used, finishing with béchamel sauce and topping with a generous dusting of cheese.

Baking and Serving the Lasagne:
Cover the baking dish lightly with foil, taking care not to let it touch the top of the lasagne.  Bake 40 minutes, or until almost heated through.  Remove the foil and bake another 10 minutes, or until hot in the center (test by inserting a knife – if it comes out very warm, the dish is ready).  Take care not to brown the cheese topping.  It should be melted, creamy looking and barely tinged with a little gold. Turn off the oven, leave the door ajar and let the lasagne rest for about 10 minutes.  Then serve.  This is not a solid lasagne, but a moist one that slips a bit when it is cut and served.  (Please follow this step exactly as written and you will not be sorry.  The cheese on top was melted and so creamy looking … only a bit golden.)

Making the Spinach Egg Pasta  (Pasta Verde):

Ready or not ... it's time to start.

Ready or not ... it's time to start.

#1  Spinach Egg Pasta (Pasta Verde)
Preparation: 45 minutes

Makes enough for 6 to 8 first course servings or 4 to 6 main course servings, equivalent to 1 pound (450g) dried boxed pasta.

2 jumbo eggs (2 ounces/60g or more)     (I had to use 4 jumbo eggs)

10 ounces (300g) fresh spinach, rinsed dry, and finely chopped; or 6 ounces (170g) frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry   (Used approximately 8 ounces of fresh spinach)

3 & 1/2 cups (14 ounces/400g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour (organic stone ground preferred)  ( was unable to find stone ground, but did find all purpose, unbleached, organic flour.) 

Working by Hand:
Equipment

A roomy work surface, 24 to 30 inches deep by 30 to 36 inches (60cm to 77cm deep by 60cm to 92cm).   Any smooth surface will do, but marble cools dough slightly, making it less flexible than desired.

A pastry scraper and a small wooden spoon for blending the dough.

A wooden dowel-style rolling pin.  In Italy, pasta makers use one about 35 inches long and 2 inches thick (89cm long and 5cm thick).  The shorter American-style pin with handles at either end can be used, but the longer it is, the easier it is to roll the pasta.   (Found a 20 inch wooden rolling pin, 2 inches thick at Williams-Sonoma.  Wish I could have found a longer one as I had great success in rolling and stretching the dough!)

Plastic wrap to wrap the resting dough and to cover rolled-out pasta waiting to be filled.  It protects the pasta from drying out too quickly.

A sharp chef’s knife for cutting pasta sheets.

Cloth-covered chair backs, broom handles, or specially designed pasta racks found in cookware shops for draping the pasta.  (I used my dining room chair backs covered with kitchen towels.)

Mixing the dough:
Mound the flour in the center of your work surface and make a well in the middle.  Add the eggs and spinach.  Use a wooden spoon to beat together the eggs and spinach.  Then gradually start incorporating shallow scrapings of flour from the sides of the well into the liquid.   As you work more and more flour into the liquid, the well’s sides may collapse.  Use a pastry scraper to keep the liquids from running off and to incorporate the last bits of flour into the dough.  Don’t worry if it looks like a hopelessly rough and messy lump.  (I used my fingers/hands to incorporate the flour into the liquid.)

Kneading:
With the aid of the scraper to scoop up unruly pieces, start kneading the dough.  Once it becomes a cohesive mass, use the scraper to remove any bits of hard flour on the work surface – these will make the dough lumpy.  Knead the dough for about 3 minutes.  Its consistency should be elastic and a little sticky.  If it is too sticky to move easily, knead in a few more tablespoons of flour.  (My dough was sticky, so it was necessary to add  small amounts of flour to be able to work with it.)  Continue kneading about 10 minutes, or until the dough has become satiny, smooth, and very elastic.   It will feel alive under your hands.  (This sounds odd, but you will feel the dough come to “life” as you knead it.)  Do not shortcut this step.  Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, and let it relax at room temperature 30 minutes to 3 hours.  ( I recommend the full 3 hours.)

 
 

Stretching and Thinning:
If using an extra-long rolling pin work with half the dough at a time. With a regular-length rolling pin, roll out a quarter of the dough at a time and keep the rest of the dough wrapped.  (With my 20 inch rolling pin, I divided the dough into thirds.)  Lightly sprinkle a large work surface with flour.  The idea is to stretch the dough rather than press down and push it.  Shape it into a ball and begin rolling out to form a circle, frequently turning the disc of dough a quarter turn.  As it thins outs, start rolling the disc back on the pin a quarter of the way toward the center and stretching it gently sideways by running the palms of your hands over the rolled-up dough from the center of the pin outward.  Unroll, turn the disc a quarter turn, and repeat.  Do twice more.

Kneading completed ... ready to wrap and let rest for 3 hours.

Kneading completed ... ready to wrap and let rest for 3 hours.

 

 Stretch and even out the center of the disc by rolling the dough a quarter of the way back on the pin.  Then gently push the rolling pin away from you with one hand while holding the sheet in place on the work surface with the other hand.  Repeat three more times, turning the dough a quarter turn each time.

OK … here is where I have to share with you my inspiration for using this method of rolling out the pasta.  The instructions are actually very good … but I could not “picture” how to do it until I watched the following video: 

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_jf9A1tVu8 . 

(Thanks to our Daring Baker hosts for including this in our challenge info.)  You might laugh … but I had my laptop on the counter, playing this video over and over,  while I was rolling out the pasta.  I found the music helped me keep a rhythm going! 

Ready to hand-roll one third of the pasta dough.

Ready to hand-roll one third of the pasta dough.

Trying to roll the pasta to the edges of the rolling pin.

Got the music playing ... and the dough rolling!

Roll & Stretch ... Roll & Stretch ... almost to the edges of the rolling pin!

Roll & Stretch ... Roll & Stretch ... almost to the edges of the rolling pin!

Success!   Wish I had a longer rolling pin!

Success! Wish I had a longer rolling pin!

Rolled and stretched as far as my rolling pins goes!

Rolled and stretched as far as my rolling pins goes!

Repeat the two processes as the disc becomes larger and thinner.  The goal is a sheet of even thickness.  For lasagne, the sheet should be so thin that you can clearly see your hand through it and see colours.  Cut into rectangles about 4 by 8 inches (10 x 20 cm).  Note: Enza says that transparency is a crucial element of lasagne pasta and the dough should be rolled as thinly as possible.  She says this is why her housekeeper has such strong arms!   (When I held my dough up to the light you could see right thru it and see the outline of the individual chopped spinach pieces!)

 Dry the pasta at room temperature and store in a sealed container or bag.

DRYING THE PASTA

Pasta drying over the backs of dining room chairs!

Pasta drying over the backs of dining room chairs!

#2  The Bechamel Sauce
Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour, organic stone ground preferred
2 & 2/3 cups (approx 570ml) milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

Using a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over low to medium heat. Sift over the flour, whisk until smooth, and then stir (without stopping) for about 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk a little at a time and keep the mixture smooth. Bring to a slow simmer, and stir 3 to 4 minutes, or until the sauce thickens. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Season with salt, pepper, and a hint of nutmeg.    

#3 Country Style Ragu’ (Ragu alla Contadina)
Preparation Time:  Ingredient Preparation Time 30 minutes
Cooking time 2 hours

Makes enough sauce for 1 recipe fresh pasta or 1 pound/450g dried pasta)

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (45 mL)
2 ounces/60g pancetta, finely chopped
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium stalk celery with leaves, minced
1 small carrot, minced
4 ounces/125g boneless veal shoulder or round
4 ounces/125g pork loin, trimmed of fat, or 4 ounces/125g mild Italian sausage (made without fennel)
8 ounces/250g beef skirt steak, hanging tender, or boneless chuck blade or chuck center cut (in order of preference)
1 ounce/30g thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma
2/3 cup (5 ounces/160ml) dry red wine
1 &1/2 cups (12 ounces/375ml) chicken or beef stock (homemade if possible)   (I made chicken stock.)
2 cups (16 ounces/500ml) milk
3 canned plum tomatoes, drained  (To clarify … this is 3 individual plum tomatoes from the can.)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

My shopping notes:  The ragu’ requires small amounts of 5 different types of meats.  Not very easy to buy 2 oz. of one meat or 4 ounces of another.   But again, Whole Foods came thru for me.  They were able to sell me 4 ounces of pork loin and 8 ounces of skirt steak!  Dean & DeLuca, an upscale grocery store chain, was more than happy to sell me 1 ounce of Prosciutto de Parma (good thing cause it ‘s like $32.00 a pound)  and 2 ounces of pancetta!  My local Price Chopper had the veal in the amount I needed.   So, my advice is not to be afraid to ask for what you need!

Working Ahead:
The ragu can be made 3 days ahead.  Cover and refrigerate. It also freezes well for up to 1 month.  Skim the fat from the ragu’ before using it.

Browning the Ragu Base:
Heat the olive oil in a 12 inch (30cm) skillet (frying pan) over medium-high heat.  Have a large saucepan handy to use once browning is complete.  Add the pancetta and minced vegetables and sauté, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, 10 minutes, or until the onions barely begin to color.  Coarsely grind all the meats together, including the prosciutto, in a food processor or meat grinder.  (I used my KitchenAid meat grinder attachment for the first time!)   Stir into the pan and slowly brown over medium heat.  First the meats will give off a liquid and turn dull grey but, as the liquid evaporates, browning will begin.  Stir often, scooping under the meats with the wooden spatula. Protect the brown glaze forming on the bottom of the pan by turning the heat down.  Cook 15 minutes, or until the meats are a deep brown.  Turn the contents of the skillet into a strainer and shake out the fat.  Turn them into the saucepan and set over medium heat.

Browning the Ragu base

Browning the Ragu base

Reducing and Simmering: Add the wine to the skillet, lowering the heat so the sauce bubbles quietly.  Stir occasionally until the wine has reduced by half, about 3 minutes.  Scrape up the brown glaze as the wine bubbles. Then pour the reduced wine into the saucepan and set the skillet aside.

Stir ½ cup stock into the saucepan and let it bubble slowly, 10 minutes, or until totally evaporated.  Repeat with another ½ cup stock.  Stir in the last 1/2 cup stock along with the milk.  Adjust heat so the liquid bubbles very slowly. Partially cover the pot, and cook 1 hour.  Stir frequently to check for sticking.

Add the tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pot.  Cook uncovered, at a very slow bubble for another 45 minutes, or until the sauce resembles a thick, meaty stew.  Season with salt and pepper.

Assemble lasagne according to the directions listed at the beginning of this post.

As I was working my way thru the recipe I kept chanting under my breath, “I will never make this again … I will never make this again”.   BUT, it only took one bite for me to change my mind. 

I WILL BE MAKING THIS AGAIN !

Now I can mark making homemade hand-rolled pasta off of my "gotta try it someday list!

Now I can mark homemade hand-rolled pasta off my "gotta try it someday list!

Worth all the work!

Worth all the work ... 6 layers of pasta!

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7 Responses

  1. Mmm, your lasagne looks awesome!! Great job on this challenge =D!

  2. Great looking lasagne!! I loved the spinach pasta and definately will do that one again too. I missed the drying of my noodles. I just cut them and put them into a pot of boiling water. I wonder if that made any difference. I thought the lasagne was delish!! Way to go. Lisa

  3. Yeah, I feel the same: I will definitely make this again! I am so impressed with my fellow Daring Bakers who handrolled the pasta – I went and bought a pasta machine…
    Great job!

  4. On to the next cooking/baking challenge for you, huh? You sure did a nice job rolling the pasta. I didn’t understand the whole rolling and stretching thing until after I finished and I watched a clip on youtube. Whoops!

    Your lasagna looks fantastic! Nice post too 🙂

  5. Beautiful lasagne, fabulous post 🙂

  6. Thanks for the very flattering comments on my blog. What a fabulous job you did on your posting – excellent teaching pictures and your very honest comments about the process. Just love the rolling pin you used, and the drying chairs.

  7. Your lasagne looks great! Nice thinking using the backs of your chairs for drying the pasta.

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